We are the world, we are the children...we are the one's who make a better place, so let's start giving...
It's taken me a while to get to this place...this place where I can tell you all what I've been through in the last 3 weeks or so. I've crossd 3 continents, many diverse cultures, gastronomies, travelling sickness and have finally ended up on the coast of the south Atlantic in a room with a view...and a steady internet connection. Aside from all that, how do I even begin to tell you all that my eyes have seen or that my heart has felt...perhaps we can go for coffee sometime and in my eyes you'll see it all.
People think travelling is glamourous. Let me dilute your illusions for good reason. Travelling is only glamourous if you live in a superficial world, afraid to step into reality, but say you dare to take that step into the unknown, risk all you have, go to the land of the people, live, eat, dance, breathe, sweat, sleep there...then you begin to experience at least some truth.
I've gone from a land in northern Europe, almost gushing in it's wealth and forward thinking policy development, to have arrived in a country who's heart beats to the rhythms of the drum, body sways to the movements to free of it of its slavery driven past, eyes saddened by withdrawn hope while souls cry out for connection and spare dinheiro...for certain their mind knows there must be a better way or place to live...so why does Brasil not know how wealthy it is...and what do we do about this? I think about this daily.
Garbage in the streets, tripping over blocks of upheaved concrete, questioning their ways of how they organize progress--blocks strewn all over the streets gives the impression that this is an uncared for derelict area, yet this is part of some "movement" by the mayor to "redo the streets"...but everywhere this organized...I wonder...
There is funding for cities tours to educate people about their city, their history, people, places; these tours are excellent, funded by the city they take only a donation from the participants in the form of food to serve those less fortunate; yet, there is so much pollution in their waterways and nothing being done about it...the contrasts of a 3rd world/ "developing" nation.
People are colourful here. I've had so many wonderful people help me as I fumbled through my broken espanogues! Yet they are so kind and patient, and for some reason this comes as unexpected, I'm not quite sure what part of my undestanding has created this stereotype, but everytime is it pleasantly remodelled.
So how did Brazil first greet me?
With an on the spot Frevo performance as I arrived at the terminal in Recife, and I thought to myself, (with mild trepidation), if this is any indication of what this place is gonna be like, it should be a good time!

So what is my daily life like here?
Well, daily breakfast has consisted of the same options: tropical fruits (papaya, abacaxi (pineapple), orange, melon, watermelon); breads/buns/cakes; hot mystery foods and a lady who cooks "tapioca"--which of course, if NOT the same as what we normally think of as tapioca back home! This is basically like a tortilla made of loose manioc flour which is heated in a hot pan forming the thick tortilla, which is usually filled with cheese or ham, (but there are of course other options). After trying out some of these foods, and knowning it would have to get me sometime, I've managed to survive the last 2 weeks despite a common travellers sickness while acclimatizing to the regions foods, by limiting myself to survive on bread, water and bananas all last week. A good experiment, thankfully successful and over (fingers crossed!).
After breakfast, the fun begins...we "hail" a bus, climb on (very steep steps), pay the attendant (not the driver), push past the stiff steel rotary turnstall, squeeze into an already packed bus as much more as is possible and hope that you don't end up with anyone else's sweat on your body other than your own, as you hang on for dear life while the bus manouvers in chaotic traffic and jolts between stops and starts; all the while trying to keep an eye out for your stop--cuz if you are not by the door the bus driver won't stop for you, or if you are too far back in the crowd you'll miss getting off, as I witnessed poor Soraya and Mamud get caught behind a gentleman who dropped his papers, and I was left standing at our destination wondering where and when they would show up?! There is an interesting cultural tendency here on the bus, quite thoughtful actually, where those who are sitting offer to hold your baggage on their lap for you while you try to survive the bus ride...thank God!

So finally at our destination, we walk the old colonial streets of Recife Antigo, usually with a bit of drizzle in our face--it is winter here, the so called "rainy season" despite the 25-30 C temperatures. At our office, located on "Rua Bom Jesus" (rather appropriate I think), we begin our lectures in the morning, and training in the afternoons. Here's a interesting fact, for your fact-book: we are located next to the first Synagogue in the Americas (e1636), from which the Jewish people later moved to establish New York: "23 of them moved to New Amsterdam, the future New York City. There they formed the colonies' first Jewish community."

Some days in the morning, I take a run along the beach path, where I meet the colourful people of Recife on their morning routines--there are the exercisers, running, walking, strolling--a common exercise attire is men in speedos, or the speedo-tshirt combo (the combos with the "bright speedo" sticking out always get me gigglin'), and women in 3/4 length tights and t-shirt, with head-visor to block sun; and their are "watchers"--the regulars who are setting up their coconut stands, bringing in various tropical fruits, bargaining out of their VW vans, and those preparing their seats on the beach--it's a race to get the best "sales" spot. Then there are the regular homeless people and dogs, curled up in the shade of a palms and still cool sand. If I managed to catch the regular exercise group, I would join in exercise-dance program, which always put a smile on my face.
I have since replaced my morning runs with evening training in Capoeira (commonly known as the Brazilian martial art, but also explained as a "game"), which to my own surprise, I did not expect to enjoy combat as much as I have! Perhaps its the base beat that keeps me going. Capoeira originated as a means of sugar planatation slaves to combat colonial owners, disguising training as a "cultural dance" encircled by the music group who kept the base beat with instruments and singing while combatants trained against another. So far, I have learned the following moves: jinga, esquiva, bencao, cocorinha, au, meia-lua...and i'm craving more! Soraya is now reassured that I can protect her on the streets of Brazil as we continue to study local culture! I've also stumbled upon a dancing troop, where I have begun studying Brazilian dances...how long did you bet that would take ?! haha!
I continue to pick up the portugues, and between the three of us (students) here, I've managed to save us a few times...most amusing was ordering pizza over the phone last night...somehow, as Soraya stood next to me madly flipping through the food translation section, while I and the pizza guy at the other end laughed hysterically at our inability to completely comprehend what each other was saying, we managed to order a "mystery" pizza, and i perfected my portugues pronounciation of my room number...how many times did that take?! i'd probably start crying from all the laughter if you asked me to react the situation....
By the way, I just have to say, "estaba linda este noite"...how I love the sound of portugues language in song...there are many great rhythms in Brazil, but as I learn, so many of the ones that are well known outside of Brazil are from the Nordeste (northeast) region, of which I am in; "Frevo" which celebrates 100 years this year, and orginated here in Recife, drives Carnaval, as does the famous common Maracatu. Samba is also from this region. The well known "Carnaval", pretty much originated here in Recife & Olinda (sister cities), and are more the authentic celebration than the other commonly known Carnaval de Rio de Janiero. Capoeira also comes from this rich cultural and historic region. And the reason for all this? Well, the Northwest point of Brasil was were the first collonists arrived, so there you go!
Another interesting fact for your FACTBOOK: The only reason Rio de Janeiro become as populated as it did was bc Recife/Olinda, where the Prince of Portugal first sailed to (running away from Napoleon) with his 40 ships and 15,000 people of his court, was not established as a center to maintain 15,000 people who did not work but only "lived" in the court, since R/O was a region of hard working people...so the Prince sailed onto Rio...now, you would only get that story from a local.
Lunch times are devoted to searching out a local "pay by the kilo" self-service establishment, of usually home-made-like food. It's another popular cultural tendency in the Recife, Antigo area, which really comes alive on week days, but is pretty much dead quite on weekends.
Home time involves the same maddening bus ride, but usually with a seat instead of standing, thankfully so, bc it's a long one, just as packed, and smells even worse...we have now been conditioned to dread the moment we pass the channel, which must be the main sewage dump of the city, and leaves me thinking the rest of the way about creative ways to fix the problem, clean the city and educate the people...afterall, I am learning that the problem with the pollution here is coming down to education. As we move to higher levels of education of energy consumption and utilization in "developed" countries, there is still the more basic level of education required here for sanitation, pollution, and health. We take this basic education as common sense, and it is hard to comprehend that people just don't understand not to throw their garbage on the streets.
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We managed to get some local sight seeing in as well on our days off:
Francisco Brennand Ceramic Gallery: beautiful open garden and studio galleries set in the Atlantic rainforest north of Recife ("Hee-see-fee"). I was interviewed by local jounalists, and somehow in 3 languages (english, portugues, and spanish) we were able to communicate! don't know if they posted it yet, but this is the supposed link: www.revistadobrasil.net



Porto do Galinhas & surroundings: Most famous beach area; beautiful clear blue waters, surfing, kite-surfing; great local foods--yummy Beijupira (a local white fish)...a dream come true! This was an interesting ride through the country side, to see how locals live, to really know the country, to see the reminents of past coconut plantations, and the beautiful faces of the people of the country.




City Tours: First tour was of the "pracas"=city squares/parks, little points of refugee in a busy concrete maze, in honour on the birthday of their designer "Burle Marx". The second tour was of "local poets", the people who coloured the culture of Recife--Frevo creators, to poets, and writers. They have statues around the city of these interesting people.



Duke Ellington Orchestra Live!: Part of the Recife Jazz fest, we went to the show in the historic Teatro Santa Isabel, which after talking to Ravi, from the horns section of the orchestra, who we happened to bump into at our hotel, was probably the most glamourous of all the places they have played on this tour around Brazil!



The BEACH!: Of course, we like to take in the sun as much as we can (partially due to trying to dry out from the Denmark experience), but how could we not! It's right outside our door. Most people don't go into the water here bc of 2 things: it's not the cleanest water, and the sharks! There has been an increase of shark attacks in the last 2 years...many theories exist as to why, some say human intervention with a port built further south has driven them here to feed. And of course, the locals who try to sell you anything from the shrimp in the buckets balanced on their heads to sunglasses and peanuts!

So what else has Brasil given me?
Well, visiting this continent always opens my eyes to the real conditions that most of the people in this world live in. It has ignited a greater fire for the need to do what we can to strive for a just economy and living conditions by becoming an educated as possible--don't believe what you are told, not even from me, unless you experience it yourself. Then go do something about it.
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Well, the morning's rain has turned into a sunny and windy mid-day, the kids from the local favela are out on the reefs doing flips into the ocean water and it's just about time to get outside and enjoy the air again... until next time, remember your neighbor.
Adeus do Brazil, Andrea